“Where is the nerve centre of classical music in the early 21st century? Answering that question depends on your criteria. If it’s to do with possessing a venerable tradition, you might choose Vienna. If it’s the location of the best orchestras and opera houses, you might choose Berlin. If it’s finding exuberantly creative ways to reinvent the tradition, London or New York seem strong contenders. But if the true measure is a passionate devotion amounting almost to idolatry, Tokyo would win the palm.”