“Like its namesake, the phoenix, La Fenice has finally risen from the ashes. The whole saga has resembled one of those long, tumultuous operas in which everything turns out more or less all right in the final act. Next Sunday, in the presence of Carlo Azeglio Ciampi, the Italian president, La Fenice reborn will open its doors. Yet even now, this is a reopening without opera.” There will be an opening week of concerts, and then the doors will “close again until Nov. 12, 2004, when Lorin Maazel will conduct a new production of “La Traviata.”