THE $543 LUNCH

Philadelphia restaurant critic goes for lunch in New York’s hot new restaurant. “It is enough to do a triple take at the prices, even as you settle into the Brazilian rosewood and gold-trimmed opulence of the dining room, with its Neapolitan fabrics, polished black columns and exploding rose bouquets. Did I just order a $50 appetizer? An $80 steak? Coca-Cola for $8? Uh-huh.” – Philadelphia Inquirer