British classical music label New Music Cassettes marks its 20th anniversary “with 96 new commissions, performed in London over four days,” each piece written for only a bottle of wine as payment. And why would composers agree to that? “Because, in the cutthroat record industry, there’s nothing quite like NMC. In the course of 20 years and 150 releases, NMC has recorded the sort of stuff that commercial labels recoil from in terror.”